WIG CHOICE
Though hairpieces and wigs have
become trendy in high-fashion circles, for most women, selecting
a wig is a still a mystery. To make the right choice you should
know what types of hairpieces and wigs are available:
Hair Types:
Synthetic or "Real"
Synthetic
and human hair wigs are equally durable and can both be matched
to your own hair color and desired cut. Many women favor synthetic
wigs, since they are easier to maintain, hold their set longer,
dry faster after washing, and are far less expensive than "real
hair" wigs. Hair varies from tough (low-end) to almost silky
(high-end). At the same time, human hair wigs win fans for natural
feel and versatility; in fact, you can reset as often as real
hair and touch-up using heat appliances (i.e., curling irons,
blow dryers, etc.) that would melt a synthetic wig. Grade A
human hair wigs (not Grade B, which are less resilient) can
even be re-dyed or permed. However, since the added work required
for human hair can become tiresome and pricey, many women prefer
to go "low maintenance" with synthetic. It's a very personal
decision that only the person who is going to wear the hairpiece
or wig should make.
Construction:
Machine, Hand, or Custom-Made
Quality construction is a key factor
in choosing any wig. A well-crafted, machine-made synthetic
wig looks like your own hair and offers comfort-minded details,
like a vented cap, at a reasonable price. Such mass-produced
synthetic wigs perform better than some low quality human hair
wigs, so it's important to know what you are getting. High-quality,
hand-made wigs look even more natural, since strands of hair
are individually tied, allowing the wig to be parted and styled
with hair accessories. Top-of-the-line, custom-made wigs - fit
to your precise specifications - are the closest to your own
hair, but cost a great deal and take several months to produce.
To find reputable wig retailers and makers, contact the American
Cancer Society or your hair stylist.
Options: Wigs
or Hairpieces
In addition
to wigs, there are bangs, falls, ponytails and side pieces to
wear with hats and headwraps. Such hairpieces are an option
if you prefer not to wear a wig - or just don't want to wear
one every day. Attached to the inside of a hat or headwrap (usually
with Velcro), the hairpiece falls naturally from beneath, providing
the illusion of a full head of hair.
WIGS AND HAIRPIECES
For men, women, and children
with hair loss there are many options on wigs and hairpieces.
Some synthetic wigs can be purchased for as little as $39.00
through mail order catalogs. Some custom made hairpieces with
human hair cost as much as $5,000. What you need and want may
fall between these two extremes. This booklet is designed to
provide some practical information that you can use to find
the right selection.
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TYPES OF
HAIRPIECES
Ready Made:
The ready-made styles are the most common. In this design, the
cap is generally made in sizes petite to large with the majority
in size medium, to fit a wide range of head sizes. The back
has a series of hooks and eyes or Velcro on a thin elastic band
that can be adjusted to make the wig fit snugly. Machine produced
ready-made wigs with synthetic hair, offer low cost, ease of
care and fast delivery often within 3-4 days if in stock. Many
styles are available through catalogs and prices range from
$39 to $300. Hand-tied ready-made wigs provide a more natural
looking scalp. They can be made of synthetic or processed human
hair and allow individualized styling. Hand-tied ready-made
wigs range in price from $400 to $800.
Semi-Custom:
Some manufactures offer semi-custom shaped net base wigs. This
is usually accomplished with a series of different cap sizes
and shapes that are fit to the client's head. Both the circumference
and the shape of the dome can vary. Semi-custom versions offer
the advantage of a more secure fit and can be made in 4-6 weeks.
The hair is usually hand-tied onto a net base to provide a more
natural look. They range in cost from $1,200 to $1,800. Some
allow for fitting while the client still has hair and can be
worn trough hair loss and re-growth patterns common with alopecia
areata or chemotherapy treatments.
Custom-made:
The custom molded bases are usually used for permanent and total
hair loss. A plaster mold is made of the client's head and the
base is formed from this mold. The precise fit creates what
is called the suction or "vacuum" type fit. These hairpieces
can be worn without adhesive and are the most secure and natural
looking. They require 4-6 months to make and range in price
from $2,000 to $5,000. Plaster molding of the head is done for
other form-fitting custom hairpieces, which improve the comfort
and security but do not provide a "vacuum"
type fit.
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TYPE OF
HAIR
You will have a
choice of either synthetic, processed human or unprocessed human
hair for your wig or hairpiece. Each type has advantages depending
on your life-style and hairstyle desired.
Synthetic Hair
In general, synthetic wigs may be the best choice if you have
a short hairstyle, a limited budget or have little time or capacity
to provide home care and maintenance. The major benefits are
easy care, reasonable price, permanent color and usually quick
availability. Most synthetic wigs today are made with Kanekalon
fiber that holds its shape and color. On the negative side,
some synthetic wigs tend to be stiffer and less flowing that
human hair. Constant rubbing on the collar of a blouse or exposure
to heat causes the fiber to frizz. The base is sometimes itchy
or irritating to sensitive skin and the synthetic fiber can
not be highlighted or colored. Most synthetic wigs range in
price from $39 to $800 depending on cap construction and method
of attaching the fiber to the base.
Human Hair
Human hair wigs are considered the best choice for longer hair
styles, when the budget is more flexible and when you want to
look and feel the most natural. The major benefits of human
hair wigs are they flow and move like growth hair, feel soft
to the touch and on your neck and provide the most natural appearance.
These pieces can be premed and colored and generally last longer
than synthetics. The drawbacks are that they need care like
growth hair and are generally more expensive.
Processed Human
Hair
The term Processed
Hair is used to describe human hair, which has had one or more
chemical processes in an attempt to change its outward appearance.
Most of the processed hair which is used in the manufacturing
of hairpieces is of Indian, Indonesian or Chinese origin because
of it's availability and affordable cost. This hair, which is
naturally black, course and straight, must be chemically processed
in order to achieve the appearance of natural unprocessed hair.
It is first lifted of color (bleach); than color is deposited
(dyed) than permanently curled (permed) and finally stripped
of it's outside cuticle layer (decuticalized).
Unprocessed
Hair
Unprocessed Hair
(European quality) is the finest quality hair available because
it requires no chemical processing. This hair is gathered in
the form of ponytails, which are blended and matched according
to color, length, texture and curl pattern. It takes up to 12
unprocessed ponytails to manufacture one vacuum hairpiece. The
European quality hair is not only the finest but also the most
expensive, and has a much longer life expectancy. The European
quality hair is carefully blended without disturbing the cuticle
direction, resulting in tangle free styling. Less frequent repairs
and chemical processes are needed because of the healthy hair
shaft.
Blends:
Some companies offer a blend of human hair and synthetic fiber.
Sometimes this provides the advantages of both, i.e. some sway
and movement and the natural feel of the human hair along with
the style keeping and easy care of the synthetic. At other times
it can
present problems in care and maintenance, as each
type of hair requires different processing methods to keep it
in style.
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ATTACHMENT
METHODS
There is a variety of attachment
methods available depending on your individual pattern of hair
loss, personal life-style and desire for security. Hair weaving
or bonding (i.e. gluing or tying a hairpiece to existing hair)
is generally not recommended as it can place too much
strain
on the existing hair. Full wigs can be attached to growth hair
with mini clips or to parts of the head without hair using double-sided
tape. When hair clips are used they should be rotated periodically
to avoid putting prolonged pressure on the same area. For women
with total hair loss, a custom molded "vacuum fit" or suction
cap will require no tape or clips.
Bonding periods for both tape
and adhesive are from 2 to 10 days, or with extended wear for
up to 6 weeks. The amount of time tape of adhesive holds during
the bonding period depends upon each individuals activities
due to the oil secreation from their scalp. Scalp oil is the
culprit that causes the adhesive to soften and release.
For those who wish to bond their
hairpiece of wig for long periods of time, with no meltdown
problems, please be advised that the new SUPERTAPE� now available
is guaranteed not to melt down.
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MACHINE-MADE
VS. HAND-MADE
Machine-Made:
Machine-Made wigs are almost always less expensive. In most
styles, this means the hair fibers are machine sewn onto a "weft"
in a fixed pattern. The wefts are then assembled together on
an open net base. Generally this type of construction is meant
to be worn when you have hair as you can see through the wefts
when the wind blows.
Hand-Made:
Hand production methods involve hand knotting on net base hairpieces
or hand inserting on custom molded base hairpieces or wigs.
Hand construction methods usually provide a more random and
natural appearance. Most hand knotting or implantation is done
overseas because of the high cost in countries like the United
States of America. On some types of hairpiece and wigs there
are thousands of individual hair shafts tied to the wig cap
in order to create the hair piece. There are a wide variety
of price and appearance options with hand production methods
that is explained in the following section.
HAND IMPLANTATION
OR KNOTTING METHODS:
On almost all wigs and hairpieces, hair is attached to the wig
base with "ventilating needles". Ventilating needles come in
various sizes and have small hooks at the end designed to pull
a specific number of hairs from the hair bundle and insert them
into the base material. The needles with the smallest hooks
will pull one hair shaft at a time. Larger hook versions can
pull up to 8 hair shafts at a time. Single hair shaft knotting
or implanting is the most natural looking but also the most
expensive.
Hand Implantation
on Molded Bases:
Hand
implantation is a process on the suction or "vacuum fit" hairpieces.
Once the molded base has been formed, the hair is implanted
into the base either one shaft at a time or up to five shafts
at a time. The single shaft method duplicates the pattern of
growth hair and provides the most natural looking results. The
multi-shaft implantation can save money but may be less natural
especially at the part line or crown. When hair is implanted,
the angle of implantation varies over the surface of the base
to duplicate that of growth hair on the scalp. Special treatments
are often provided at the front hairline and the nape of the
neck depending on the style of the hairpiece.
Hand-Tied Knotting
Methods:
On net base
hairpieces, the hair is tied onto the net with the use of the
ventilating needle. The designated number of hairs are first
picked up from the hair bundle then pushed through the net,
knotted, then pulled back through the net again. Most net base
hairpieces will knot more than one hair shaft at a time. Often
the pattern in the front may be 2-5 shafts at a time while in
the back it can be 5-8 shafts at a time.
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BASE MATERIALS
AND DESIGN
Net base wigs come in variety
of styles. The best quality will use a very fine net sometimes
called "monofilament". The fine net designs keep the hairs closer
together and provide a more natural appearance. Some net base
designs come with a polyurethane liner that provides a surface
area for taping to areas of the head that may have no hair.
The liner also helps provide a more natural looking scalp at
the part line.
The vacuum fit or suction type
hairpieces are made of several different materials ranging from
fiberglass (hard) to silicone (soft). The soft bases generally
are lighter and slightly more comfortable. The hard bases are
more durable. All the vacuum type bases will be slightly warmer
to wear than the net base wigs.
HAIRLINE:
One of the most critical areas in wig design is the front hairline.
Many styles do not have a very natural looking front hairline
and this forces the client to wear styles with bangs or with
the hair pulled more forward and into the face.
For the best appearance, we
suggest you consider styles with whispy bangs or hair styled
slightly off the face. You should always ask about any styling
limitations before you purchase your hairpiece. Some wigs come
with a special feature where hairs are hand-tied and "under-vented"
on the edge to provide the most natural appearance.Creative
styling techniques can also be used to give the appearance of
a whispy natural looking bang line.
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COLOR &
STYLING
If you are selecting a wig for
a temporary hair loss condition your first decision may be whether
you want to duplicate the style and color of your growth hair
or to use the opportunity to experiment with different looks.
Synthetic wigs can be purchased
in a wide variety of colors and styles. The main advantage with
synthetic wigs is that the fiber will hold most of its color
even with prolonged exposure to sun. Many ready made synthetic
wigs come ready made in highlighted colors and blends. Some
custom made synthetics can be ordered with several colors mixed
throughout the hairpiece to provide a more natural appearance.
Styling of synthetics is done with steam or heat.
It is not recommended that you
attempt home styling as the temperature must be closely controlled
to prevent damage to the synthetic fiber.
Human hair wigs can be colored
and highlighted like growth hair to achieve the look you want.
The drawback is that the color will oxidize or fade with prolonged
exposure to sun just like growth hair. Human hair can be recolored
or highlighted. Coloring a human hair wig does take special
training and should never be attempted at home. A trained stylist
will always do a test strand and in some cases may try multiple
tests to achieve the desire shade. Styling human hair wigs is
similar to growth hair with the exception of special techniques
around the hairline. In addition, the perming method is very
different and should never be attempted with home permed kits.
A human hair wig will tend to hold the perm as it does not "grow
out" like growth hair.
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HOME CARE
All wigs will require some home
care. In general, the ones that look and feel the most natural
may need the most care to keep them looking that way.
Synthetic wigs usually require
simple washing in cool water about every 7-10 days. They can
be left to dry on a towel overnight and can easily be "fluffed"
back to their original style. Hot water, hair dryers or curling
irons should never be used. Hand-tied synthetic wigs can be
restyled by your stylist.
Human hair wigs require shampooing
and conditioning about every 7-10 days. They can be air dried
overnight or a hair dryer may be used on low heat setting for
faster results. If your human hair wig has been permed then
you may treat it like permed growth hair.
Every hairpiece should come
with recommended care instructions which should include any
special shampooing procedures and recommended hair care products.
Always follow these instructions carefully or ask your stylist
for specific instructions.
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REPAIRS
Almost all wigs will need repairs
periodically to keep them looking fresh and natural. A human
hair wig will begin to lose hair at the part line and crown
through the normal pressure of combing and brushing. On many
styles, hair can be added in these areas to maintain a natural
appearance. Processed human hair wigs may need to be decuticalized
at various times. The cuticle is the outer surface of a human
hair shaft, which consists of 5-10 layers that resemble overlapping
roof shingles. Repeated handling and blending of the hair causes
the reversal of cuticle direction, resulting in extreme tangling,
especially at the nape of the neck. By dipping the hair into
an acid bath, the shaft is stripped of its cuticle layer leaving
the hair slick. A loss of color caused by normal elements (oxidation)
requires the frequent reapplication of chemical hair color.
Processed human hair will need to be re-colored more frequently
than unprocessed human hair.
Hand-tied synthetic wigs can
be steamed and reset when they need a style change or "frizzes"
need to be eliminated. This must be done under very controlled
heat conditions and we recommend you use a stylist who is trained
in this technique. In general, machine made synthetic wigs are
crimped at the base to provide fullness and camouflage the hairline.
This technique makes subsequent repairs or restyling very difficult.
With both human hair and synthetic wigs the overall appearance
and life span will be greatly affected by the type of home care
you provide.
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BACK-UP
HAIRPIECE / WIG
Regardless of the type of hairpiece
or wig you choose, it is always a good idea to have a back-up.
With synthetic wigs, an unplanned exposure to sudden heat may
cause frizzing that a professional should be able to fix. While
being repaired, you will need that backup hairpiece or wig to
wear. Human hair wigs can last from 1 to 2 years when worn regularly,
it may need periodic repairs during its life span to keep it
looking good. Minor repairs can be completed within a week,
however, major repairs can take longer. That's when your back-up
hairpiece or wig will be greatly appreciated.
Please call
800-540-8905
for more information.
