BUYING GUIDE FOR WOMEN'S LACE FRONT WIGS AND MEN'S HAIRPIECES When men, women, and children lose their hair, there are just two options they have for solving their hair loss problem. These two options are either purchasing a Wig or a men's hairpiece, or they can now learn how to make and maintain wigs and hairpieces instead of buying them. Retail Synthetic Wigs and Hairpieces can cost as little as $39.00 through various mail order and online Internet catalogs. Custom made Men's Hairpieces or Women's Lace Front Wigs, made with human hair, can cost over $5,000. What you need and what you can afford may fall somewhere in between these two price extremes, however, this web page may help you with some practical information that should help you make the right decision regarding what wig or hairpiece is best for you.   TYPES OF HAIRPIECES AND LACE FRONT WIGS Ready Made Ready-made Men's Hairpieces and Women's Lace Front Wigs are the most popular hair systems sold. Most hair systems are made using a one-size-fits-all Hairpiece Foundation or a Lace Front Wig Cap that is generally made in a medium size. Men's Hairpiece Foundation are simply contoured Monofilament caps that can easily be used to design and create any size Men's Hairpiece desired. Women's Lace Front Wig Caps have a front lace Monofilament section that allow you to design and create your Lace Front Wig exactly the same way as a men's hairpiece. At the back of a Women's Lace Front Wigs there are a configuration of hooks and eyes, or Velcro, and a thin elastic band that can be adjusted to make the wig fit snugly. Machine produced ready-made Lace Front Wigs with synthetic hair, offer low cost, ease of care and fast delivery often within 3-4 days. Many various styles are available through the catalogs businesses and prices range from $39 to $300. Hand-tied ready-made Lace Front Wigs provide a more natural looking scalp appearance. They can be made of synthetic or processed human hair and they allow individualized hair styling. Hand-tied ready-made Wigs range in price from $400 to $800. Semi-Custom Some Wig Salons or Wig Shops offer semi-custom shaped Monofilament Wig Caps. This is achieved with a series of different cap sizes and shapes that are fit to the client's head. Both the circumference and the shape of the dome can vary. Semi-custom versions offer the advantage of a more secure fit and can be made and delivered within 4-6 weeks. The hair is usually hand-tied to the Monofilament Wig Cap to provide a more natural appearance. These types of Hairpieces can range in cost from $1,200 to $1,800. Some allow for fitting while the client still has hair and can be worn trough hair loss and regrowth patterns common with alopecia areata or chemotherapy treatments. Custom-made Custom designed Hairpiece Foundations are usually used to create Men's Hairpieces and Wigs for client's suffering from permanent and total hair loss loss. Creating a custom base is done by creating a plaster mold of the client's head. Next, the base is formed from the mold that is created. The exact fit creates what is called the suction or "vacuum" type fit. These Hairpieces can be worn with or without tape or adhesive and they are very secure and natural looking. They can take from 6-8 weeks to make and range in price from $2,000 to $5,000.   TYPE OF HAIR You also have the choice of purchasing your hairpiece or wig with either synthetic or processed or unprocessed human hair. Each type has advantages or disadvantages depending on your life-style and desired hairstyle. Synthetic Hair Synthetic Wigs may be your best choice if you have a short hairstyle, a limited budget or have little time to work at doing maintenance on your hair piece. The foremost benefits are easy care, reasonable price, permanent color and usually quick availability. Most synthetic Wigs today are made with Kanekalon fiber of which holds its shape and color fairly well. On the disadvantage side, some synthetic Hairpieces tend to become stiff and less flowing that natural human hair. The base may also become itchy or irritating to sensitive skin and synthetic fiber can not be highlighted or colored. Most synthetic Wigs range in price from $39 to $800 depending on cap design and construction and method of securing of the fiber to the base. Human Hair Human hair systems are considered to be the best choice for longer hair styles, when you have a more flexible budget and when you desire a natural look and feel. The major benefits of human hair systems are they flow and move like normal hair, feel soft to the touch and provide the most natural appearance. These pieces may also be premed and colored and they last longer than synthetic systems when maintained properly. The disadvantages are that they need regular maintenance just like your own hair does and they are generally more expensive than synthetic systems. Processed Human Hair The term "processed hair" is used to describe human hair, and it characterizes that the hair has had chemical processes in an attempt to change its appearance. Processed hair is used in the manufacturing of Hairpieces in countries such as Indian, Indonesian or Chinese origin because of it's availability and affordable cost. These ethnic sources of hair are mostly black, course and straight, are chemically processed to achieve the appearance of natural unprocessed hair for Caucasian nationalities. First the hair color is lifted using bleach; next the color is applied (dyed) than it is styled (permed) and then finally it is stripped of it's outer cuticle layer. Unprocessed Hair Unprocessed Hair (European quality) is the finest quality hair available because it is not chemically processed. This hair is harvested in the form of Ponytails and are blended and matched accordingly to color, length, texture and curl pattern. Quality European hair is the most expensive hair used for wig making because it has a long life expectancy. The European quality hair is carefully blended without removing the cuticle, resulting in tangle free styling. Less maintenance and chemical processes is needed because the hair shaft is naturally healthy. Blends Some companies offer a blend of human hair and synthetic fiber Hairpieces or Wigs. Sometimes this provides an advantage both in hair movement and the natural feel of human hair as well as easy styling and maintenance. However, there are times it can present problems with maintenance and require different processing methods for styling.   ATTACHMENT METHODS There are a variety of attachment methods available depending on your individual hair loss pattern, personal life-style and desire for safeness. Hair weaving or bonding (using gluing or securing a hair piece to existing hair) is generally not recommended because it can place too much stress on the existing hair. Full Wigs can be attached to your own hair with mini clips or snaps, or to parts of the head without hair using double-sided toupee tape or bonding adhesive. When Hair Clips are used they should be repositioned periodically to avoid putting prolonged stress on the same area of the scalp. For those with total hair loss, a custom molded "vacuum fit" or suction cap will require no tape or clips.   MACHINE-MADE VS. HAND-MADE Machine-Made Machine-Made Wigs are almost always less expensive and they are usually available in most styles. Hair fibers are machine sewn onto a "Weft" in a fixed pattern and they are then assembled together on an open net base. This type of wig design is meant to be worn when you have hair and when the wind blows your hair remains visible through the wefts. Hand-Made Hand production methods involve hand knotting on net base Hairpieces or hand inserting on custom molded base Hairpieces. Hand construction methods usually provide a more random and natural appearance. Most hand knotting or implantation is done overseas as the process is tedious and very labor intensive. On some type Hairpieces, there is over 140,000 individual hair shafts that need to be inserted. There are a wide variety of price and appearance options with hand production methods that is explained in the following section.   HAND TIED OR KNOTTING METHODS On almost all Women's Lace Front Wigs and Men's Hairpieces, hair is attached to the Monofilament base with "Ventilating Needles". Ventilating Needles come in various sizes and have a small hook at the end designed to pull a specific number of hairs from the hair supply while being tied to the foundation material. Needles with the smallest hook will pull one hair shaft in relationship to the needle size each time. The larger the needle hook the more hair can be pulled each time. Single hair shaft knotting or implanting is the most natural looking but also the most expensive. Hand Implantation on Molded Bases Hand implantation is a process use to create suction or "vacuum fit" Hairpieces. Once the base has been formed, the hair is implanted into the base either one at a time or more when necessary. The single hair method resembles the natural hair pattern of and provides the more desirable results. The multi-shaft implantation in less expensive, but it looks less natural especially at the part line or crown. Hair is implanted at an angle over the surface of the base to duplicate a natural hair pattern of the scalp. Special treatments are usually provided along the front hairline and neck depending on the style of the hair piece. Hand-Tied Knotting Methods With Monofilament Men's Hairpieces and Lace Front Wigs, the hair is tied onto the base using the ventilating needle. The Ventilator Needle is pushed through the base material (with the hair is to be tied); next the designated hair(s) are picked up from the hair supply and pulled back through the material and knotted. Most Monofilament base Hairpieces have more than one hair shaft applied at a time outside the front hairline and part areas. Normally, only one hair at a time is tied along the front hairline and part areas and 2 or more are applied outside these areas.   BASE MATERIALS AND DESIGN Monofilament Lace Front Wigs and Men's Hairpieces come in variety of styles. The best quality use the fine nylon material called "Monofilament". The fine designs allow the hairs to be tied closely together to provide a more natural "human-like" appearance. Some Monofilament foundation designs have with a polyurethane section that provides an area where tape or adhesive can be applied for securing the hair piece for wearing. The vacuum fit or suction type Hairpieces are made of several different materials ranging from fiberglass (hard) to silicone (soft). The soft bases generally are lighter and slightly more comfortable. The hard bases are durable, however,they can be slightly warmer to wear than the Monofilament base Hairpieces. HAIRLINE The most important segment in wig design is the front hairline and part areas. Many Hairpieces do not have a very natural looking front hairline and this forces the client's to choose styles with bangs or with the hair pulled more forward over the face. For the most favorable appearance, it is recommended to consider styles with wispy bangs or hair styled slightly over or off the face. You should always ask about styling limitations before purchasing your hair piece. Some Wigs come with special features where hair is hand-tied and "under-vented" along the edge to provide the most natural appearance. Creative styling techniques can also be used to give the appearance of a wispy natural looking bang hairline. COLOR & STYLING If you are selecting a hairpiece or wig for a temporary hair loss condition your first decision may be whether you want to duplicate the style and color of your own hair or to use this opportunity to experiment with a different look. Synthetic Hairpieces and Wigs can be purchased in a wide variety of colors and styles. The main advantage with synthetic Hairpieces and Wigs is that the fiber will hold most of its color even though prolonged exposure to sunlight. Many ready made synthetic Hairpieces come ready made in highlighted colors and blends. Some custom made synthetics can be ordered with several color blends mixed throughout the hair piece to provide a more natural highlighted appearance. Styling of synthetics should be done using only steam, using a hot blow dryer or curling iron is not recommended. Human hair Wigs and Hairpieces can be colored and highlighted like your own hair to achieve your desired look. The drawback is that the color will oxidize or fade with time or prolonged exposure to sunlight just like your own hair would. Human hair can be recolored or highlighted using coloring chemicals. Coloring a human hair wig or hairpiece does take special training and can easily be done at home to save money. Styling a human hair Lace Front Wig or men's hairpiece is done similarly as with your own hair with the exception of special techniques around the hairline. Human hair Wigs and Hairpieces tend to hold a perm considerably well because it does not "grow out" like your own hair.   HOME CARE All Wigs will require some maintenance in order to keep them looking good . Synthetic Wigs and Hairpieces may require being washed about every 7-10 days. After being washed in cool water, they can be left to dry on a towel overnight. They can easily be "fluffed" or styled back to their original style. Hot water, hair dryers or curling irons should never be used for styling. Human hair Lace Front Wigs and Men's Hairpieces require shampooing and conditioning about every 7-10 days. They can be air dried overnight or a hair dryer may be used on low heat setting for faster drying. If your human hair wig or hair piece has been permed you may then manage it like live permed hair. All Hairpieces should come with recommended care instructions of which should include any special shampooing and conditioning procedures. Always follow the manufacturers instructions carefully or ask your hair stylist or a cosmetologist for specific instructions.   REPAIRS Almost every hair piece or wig will eventually need periodical maintenance to keep them looking fresh and natural. A human hair Lace Front Wig or men's hairpiece will normally looses hair at the hairline or part line and crown area(s) as a result of normal combing and brushing. On many styles, hair can be added in these areas to maintain their natural appearance. Processed human hair Wigs may need to be decuticalized at various times. The cuticle is the outer surface of a human hair shaft, which consists of 5-10 layers that resemble overlapping roof shingles. Repeated handling and blending of the hair causes the reversal of cuticle direction, resulting in extreme tangling, especially at the nape of the neck. By dipping the hair into an acid bath, the shaft is stripped of its cuticle layer leaving the hair slick. A loss of color caused by normal elements (oxidation) requires the frequent reapplication of chemical hair color. Processed human hair will need to be recolored more frequently than unprocessed human hair. Hand-tied synthetic Wigs or Hairpieces can be steamed and reset when they need styling or need to be eliminated the "frizzys." This must be done under very controlled heat conditions and we recommend you use someone who is trained in this technique. In general, machine made synthetic Wigs are crimped at the base to provide fullness and to camouflage front hairlines. This technique makes subsequent repairing or restyling very difficult. With both human hair and synthetic hair Wigs the overall appearance and life span will be greatly affected by the type of maintenance provided.   BACK-UP Wigs Regardless of the type of wig you choose, it is always a good idea to have a back-up hair piece. With synthetic Wigs, an unplanned exposure to sudden heat may cause frizzing that a professional will need to do any required repairing. While the hair piece is being repaired, you will need an alternative hair piece to wear. With human hair Wigs you can expect them to last from 2 to 4 years with proper care, however, they will need regular periodic repairs several during the life span of the piece. Some repair services can take from 4 -6 six weeks while other may take up to ten weeks. Your back-up hair piece will allow you to take advantage of this time situation.   INSURANCE Insurance coverage for Wigs is generally unpredictable. Payment is usually obtained only on appeal after initial claim rejection. The insurance industry views Wigs and Hairpieces as cosmetic even though many states now exempt them form sale tax as a necessary prosthetic item when hair loss is caused by alopecia areata, chemotherapy or other medical causes. To have a good chance of receiving an insurance settlement if you keep your sales receipt, along with the description listing your hair piece or wig as a "full cranial prosthesis" and it is helpful to have a prescription from your doctor. In some instances it may be necessary to include a letter indicating that the hair piece or wig was needed to maintain emotional well being too. As difficult and sometimes humiliating as the process may be, insurance reimbursement is sometimes worth the battle. There are several hair piece companies and women's support group organizations who are actively fighting the battle for better insurance coverage. Check with the National Alopecia Areata Foundation (415-456-4644) for additional tips in filing a claim.   COMPARISON SUMMARY Advantages Disadvantages ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Machine-Made / Man-Made - inexpensive - often stiff and itchy - fast-availability - can see through "wefts" - wide range of styles and colors - often looks "thick" and unnatural ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hand-Tied Hand-Tied - natural looking part line - more expensive - colors can be blended - usually 4-8 weeks to make - natural looking density - will shed hair overtime ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Synthetic-Hair Synthetic-Hair - least expensive - may look stiff and unnatural - easy to maintain - low resistance to heat - wide variety of colors - can not change color - minimal color fading - may frizz to due to fiction ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Human-Hair Human-Hair - provides the most natural look - generally more expensive - moves and feels like growth hair - requires upkeep like growth hair - easily styled, colored and permed - will require periodic repair due to normal shedding - last longer If you have a question, please call: 1 866 685-8382